Shoe-sewing machine.



No. 666,225.l Patented Jan. I5, |90I.

E.. E. BEAN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application med oct. 11, 189e.) (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet l.

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Patented'lan. I5, '|90I. E. E. BEAN. sHoE SEWING MAcHlNE.

(Application led Oct. Il, 1899.)

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Patented lan. I5, |90I.

E.E. BEAN. SHUE SEWING MACHINE.

(Applcon mod Oct. 11, 1899.) (no modal.)

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No. 666,225. Patented Jan. l5, I90I. E. E. BEAN. SHUE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application med oct. 11, ms.)

7 Sheets-Sheet 4.

(No Model.)

W/7`NESSES x TH: Nonms PETERS co, vHoTaLlrno.. WASH No. 666,225. Patented lan. I5, |90I.

E. E. BEAN.

sHoE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application med one. 11, 1899.) (N0 Model.)

7 Sheets-Sheet 5.

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ATTORNEY.

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No. 666,225. Patented Ian. I5, |90I.

E. E. BEAN.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application led Oct. 11, 1899.)

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No. 666,225. Patented Ian. I5, I90I. E. E. BEAN.

sHoE sl-:wms MACHINE.

(Application med out. 1 1, 18'99.) K (No Model.) @4 7 Sheets-Sheet 7.

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' e A77'OHNISK6M4'j EDWIN E. BEAN, OE WARNER, NEW HAMPSHIRE, AssIGNOR, BY MEsNE AssIeNMENTs, TO THE LOOP LOOK MACHINE COMPANY, OE PORTLAND,

MAINE.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 666,225. dated January 15, 1901.

Application led October 11, 1899. Serial No. 733.278. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom/ t 11i/ty concern:

Be it known that I, EDWIN E. BEAN, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Warner, in the county of lWIerrimac and State of N ew Hampshire, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Shoe-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to an improvement io in shoe-sewing machines for forming a stitch which consists of a waxed thread which is drawn through the work and locked by aloop of dry thread which is not passed through the work, this stitch being known as the tufted l5 stitch. Prior to this invention Ihave devised various machines for forming this stitch, two of which are disclosed in my former patents, Nos. 524,986 and 612,150.

The object of my invention is to produce a 2o sewing machine of the general character above referred to which will sew welted or turned shoes in such a manner that theywill be free from certain defects which now exist in the boots or shoes of this class which have been sewed by the various machines now employed for this purpose and which Will render them more flexible and comfortable to the foot and more durable and less expensive to produce. The defects above referred to are caused 3o partly by the inability of the present machines to sew the soles or welt and sole to the upper without cutting a deep channel into the sole. This deep channel leaves the between substance, which extends from the bottoni of the channel to the upper to which the stitch is anchored, very narrow and weak, especially when the soles are thin or of poor quality. In such cases the stitch is liable to tear out easily, greatly affecting the durabil- 4o ity of the shoe, and as the channel has also to be eutdeeplyinto the sole in order to allow the sewing mechanism to work practically there exists but a small percentage of wearing material between the channel and outside of thesole. The consequence is that when the sole is worn down to the channel the shoe is worthless. Another disadvantage resulting from cutting this channel deep is that the portion of the sole beneath the channel is so weakcned that wheuthe shoe is turned the leather falls or caves in from the outside on a line with the channel and it requires a greater amount of labor to beat out or level the sole, so as to get a good nish on the surface than it does where these conditions do not exist. 5I;

The channeling of the soles to be sewed by the present machine requires great skill, and consequently au additional expense in their preparation.

The above-described channeling process is 6o indispensable where machines which form a chain or lock stitch are employed to do the sewing, but it is not requisite in a machine making a tufted stitch similar to mine. Prior to my invention, however, these latter machines have not been successfully used, Owing principally to the defective manner in which they lock the stitch. In these machines the loop or bight in the waxed thread is laid under the locking-loop of the dry thread in the 7o channel or on the inside of the sole-that is, the locking-loop passes through the waxedthread loop from the under side of the latter, so that the locking-loop stands up at nearly right angles to the sole, and when the shoe is beaten out the end of the locking-loop will be pressed down on top of the waxed-thread loop, forming a bunch at each stitch, and therefore a ridge on the inside of the shoe. This ridge is objectionable to such an extent 8o as to preclude the use of these machines, and my present invention has for one of its objects to do away with this objectionable feature, and thereby utilize this form of stitch, which I consider is superior in all other respects to any of the stitches which are now in practical use for the purposes referred to, for the reason that it does not impair the flexibility of the shoe, and that each individual stitch is locked independently of the Others, 9o obvating all danger of the shoe becoming ripped. In this stitch the waxed thread does not crossitself at any point, but the parts thereof which pass through the leather lie side by side therein, and the loop forms a hinge which is not strained or chafed by the bending of the sole in wearing. A maximum amount of service is thus insured, and the liability of the threads becoming abraded, disintegrated, or cut by the reason of the ham- Ioo mering it receives in beating out and leveling the bottom in the finishing process is greatly reduced. Another important advantage of this stitch over the chain or lock stitch is that while the waxed thread is of the same quality and cost as that in general use the locking-thread is amply efective when common inexpensive wrapping-twine is employed, so that the cost of threadl is reduced to the mininum.

It will be seen that the paramount objects of my invention are to produce a machine which will sew the parts to be connected in such a manner that the stitches shall embrace the greatest amount of between substance, and thus secure the soles of the upper to the best advantage, and also reserve the greatest amount of substance for wear between the stitches and outside of the sole. The defects 4of former machines have rendered it necessary to mutilate the sole, and thus deteriorate its value, in order to place the stock in condition for sewing by them. The defects above referred to are due chieily to the inequalities invariably to be found in nearly all kinds of sole-leather, some parts of the same sole being hard and firm and some being soft and spongy, and consequently some parts are weak and some are strong. As the thread is anchored to the between substance, the strength of the seam as a whole is measured by the weakest part of thematerial aorded for its anchorage, and it is obvious that by passing the stitch through a greater amount of substance its holding power is proportionately increased. As the lrm portions of the sole resist the passage of the needle through the between substance when of considerable width, the necessity arises when these prior machines are used for the adoption of the defective plan of cutting the channel deeply into and near enough to the edge of the sole to allow the needle to penetrate and pass through the upper and between substance and draw in the stitches. When this is done, the stitches may or may not hold in the firm parts of the leather; butin the soft and spongy parts the stitches easily break away from the anchorage and render the shoe worthless. By use of the instrumentalities employed by me in my new invention and machine I am enabled to cause the needle to penetrate with ease through the maximum amount of between substance and draw in the stitches, which will inclose enough of the between substance to withstand any strain which is liable to be brought to bear on the weakest parts of the sole, and also place the stitches nearer the inside surface of the sole, leaving its thicker portion between the stitches and the outside of the sole. The advantages of such condition will be readily apparent.

Anotherimportant feature of my invention is the employment of a needle having its hook located on its side of shortest curvature or side nearest its axis of lnotion, which enables the thread to be carried over the needle instead of under it when it is placed in.

the hook, so that the thread-carrier will not come in contact with the lining of the shoe and deface the same by causing the wax which accumulates on the end of the carrier to be deposited thereon. This position of the hook also enables me to locate and operate my simple and novel device for disengaging the loop from the hook outside of the path of the needle,therebyleaving thespace embraced within the path of the needle free from obstruction,so that Iam enabled to more easilyoperale an awl to penetrate the upper and between substance and open a clear passage for the needle. An awl is milch preferable for this purpose, as its point is solid and stronger than that of the needle, the point of which is weakcned on account of being cut away to form its hook, and hence it is not so well adapted to force its way through the resistance encountered when the sole is fitted with a thick between substance. Moreover, as the awl in my machine penetrates the material from the outside of the upper, where lthe lasting-tacks are located, it forces them aside and prevents them from coming in contact with the point of the needle and breaking the same.

Another feature of my invention consists of a clamp which forces the upperrmly against the shoulder on the edge of the sole, so that the upper will be in place when the awl and needle penetrate the work, and the strain on the thread usually required to draw the upper against the sole will be avoided. This feature is of great importance, particularly in sewing those portions of the shoe which include the counter and toe-cap.

Having stated in a general way the object of my invention, I will proceed to point out its particular features more fully in the following description and claims at the end of the specification.

The term between substance employed by me refers to that part of the sole lying between the groove at the point where the nee dle enters the sole and its outer edge, and the term upper means that portion of the shoe that is joined to the edge of the sole by the stitches, whether it is a turned or welted shoe.

Referring to the drawings, Figure l is a front elevation of my machine. Fig. 2 is a right-hand side elevation. Fig. 3 is a lefthand side elevation, Fig. 3 being a section of a detail. Fig. 4 is a rear elevation. Figs. 5 to 8, inclusive, are enlarged detail views of the awl, needle, and feeding-segments, showing their construction and relation with each other. Figs. 9 and 10 are full-sized details of the channelguide and dry-thread guide. Figs. ll to 17, inclusive, are full-sized details of the waxed-thread-guiding devices, showing their construction and relation with each other. Figs. 18 to 2l, inclusive, show the relation of the several devices for forming a stitch. Fig. 22 shows an enlarged View, partially in section, of the stitch as it is laid in the work. Fig. 23 showsa detail View of the end of the cast-olf.

IOO

IIO

The frame of my machine consists of ahori- Zontal base-piece A, from the outer ends of which two supports A' A2 project upwardly and carry the main driving-shaft B, which rotates in bearings in the said supports. (See Figs. l and 2.) The cams C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, and L are mounted on and secured to the main shaft B and have grooves cut into their several faces of the proper conformation to transmit the desired motion to the several devices to which they are connected. The cam M is located and secured to the shaft B outside of the support A2 and has its groove in its periphery, the shaft B extending beyond it and having adriving-wheel (not shown) secured thereto in the usual manner.

Two 'fixed shafts B' B2 are secured to the uprights A' A2 above, parallel with and equidistant from the shaft B, and serve as fulcrums for the levers C', D', E', F', H', I', J', K', and L', on which they turn freely, each of the levers receiving its movements from its corresponding cam through intermediate studs and rolls which projectfrom the levers into the grooves in the faces of the cams in the usual manner. The free ends of the above levers are connected to the various devices employed for holding and controlling the shoe, manipulating the threads, &c., by pivoted connecting-rods, which devices are in turn mounted on and secured to a midplate A3, which is secured to the base-piece A and projects upward and forward to the bracket-piece A4, being secured to the front end thereof by cap-screws. (See Figs. l and 2.) The bell-crank lever G', which is operated by the cam G, is fulcrumed to the mid-plate A5 by the stud g, and the pendent lever M', which is operated by the cam M, is pivoted to a bracket-piece A6, secured to the support A2 by the stud m. (See Figs. l and Having now shown the general location of the mechanism representing the sources from which the movements of the several devices more closely connected with the sewing of the shoe are secured, I will proceed to point out the construction, location, and respective movements of these devices.

The needle-segment g2, which carries the needle g4, is secured to a short hollow shaft or sleeve g3, which projects from the lefthand side thereof and is journaled in the lower part of the bracket-piece A4. (See dotted lines on Figs. l and 5.) The needlesegment is oscillated by the cam G through the bell-crank lever G' and connecting-rod g', the cam G being so constructed as to give the needle two strokes forward and back while making one revolution, one of which forces the needle forward through the material (see Fig. 18) and withdraws it to its fullest eX- tent (see Fig. 2l) and the other carries it forward a short distance through the cast-off (sce Fig. 20) and then withdraws it to its fullest extent, as shown in Fig. 2l.

The awl-segment e2 (see Figs. 1 and 5) is made fast to a shaft e', the larger end of which is journaled in the bracket A4 inside the hollow shafting or sleeve g3, its smaller end being journaled in the bracket-piece A5, which is firmly secured to a projection on the mid-plate A3. (See Figs. 1, 3, and 5.) The larger end of the shaft e' extends through the bracket A4 and has a crank-arm e secured thereto, the hub of which is larger than the outside diameter of the sleeve g3 and serves as a collar to keep the needle and awl segments from sliding laterally in their respective journals, thereby keeping the needle g4 and awl e3 in alinement. The awl es has a single forward and back movement which is communicated to it by the cam E throughv the lever E', connecting-rod E2, crank-arm e, shaft e, and segment e2. The needle and awl are secured to their respective segments by clamps in the usual manner.

The feed-spur t (see Figs. l and 5) is firmly secured to the side of the segment I3 which is nearest to the awl-segment, and fromits opposite side a hollow sleeve t2 projects, which is journaled on the small part of the shaft e', the combined length of the segment I3 and its sleeve 2 being equal to the distance between the awl-segment e2 and the bracket A5`minus the length of the longest stitch required. The segment I3 may therefore oscillate and slide laterally on the shaft e'. A

The feed-spur i has a swinging forward and back movement during the formation of the stitch, and also forward and back lateral movement in the same time, its swinging movements being communicated to it from the cam I through the lever I', connectingrod I2, and segment I3, the connecting-rod I2 being provided with universal joints at its end in the usual manner to accommodate the compound movements of the feed-spur segment. The lateral movements of the segment I2 are indirectly transmitted to it through the feed-clamp segment K3, which will be more fully explained in describing the feed-clamp K4 and its movements. The compound movements of the feed-spur are such as to cause the same to swing forward and-engage the between substance of the sole at a point between the needle and the channel-guide N and then move laterally in the direction of and past the path of the needle a suiicient distance to allow the needle in its movements to pass by it, (see dotted position in Fig. 5,) carrying the shoe alongwith it a distance equal to the desired length of the stitch. The feed-clamp K4 is firmly secured toa projection extending from the inner side of segment K3 at a point below the axis of motion of the latter. This segment K3 is hollow and is journaled on the sleeve t2 of the segment 13 and oscillates thereon. It is prevented from sliding laterally on the sleeve 2 by a tonguepiece t4, which is secured to the upwardlyprojecting arm of the clamp-segment K3 by the screw and engages .an annular groove 3 in the projecting end of sleeve t2. The feed-clam p K4 has two swinging forward and IOO IIO

IZO

back movements, one of which is simultaneous with the forward and back swinging movement of the feed-spur i', so that they move simultaneously toward and from each other on opposite sides of the between substance and clamp and hold the material firmly between them as they approach each other and release it as they recede. The lateral movements of the feed spur and clamp are simultaneous, both being operated by the cam M and pendant on M, to which latter a universally-jointed connecting-rod M2 is adjustably connected. The opposite end of rod M2 is pivotally connected to one end of horizontal lever M3, which latter is fulcrumed to the mid-plate M3 by the bolt m2 and is connected at its opposite end to clampsegment K2. (See Figs. 3 and 7.) The forward end of the lever M3 is provided with a vertical groove m2, (see dotted lines, Figs. 3 and 7,) into which a tongue 7a4, (see Fig. 7,) projecting from the clamp-segment K2, fits, so that as the end of lever M2swings laterally it gives the segments K2and l2 simultaneous and coincident lateral movements. The swinging movements of the feed-clamp are transmitted to it by the cam K through the lever K', universally-jointed connecting-rod K2, and segment K2. The lower end of clamp K4 is forked or cloven, (see Fig. 5,) so that the needle and awl may pass directly between the forks of the clamp, while it is holding the upper against the shoulder on the sole. As the needle when it draws back the loop would lay the thread from the preceding stitch over the adjacent fork of the clamp, the clamp has a back and forward movement independent of the feed-spur at the time the needle is drawing in the loop. The clamp is swung back by the cam K sufiiciently to allow the thread from the preceding stitch to be drawn under it, and then it is advanced and forces the upper against the sole just as the thread is drawn tight against the upper, thus assisting the needle in drawing in the upper tight against the sole, so that the stitch will be set tight against the upper and held in its locked position until the stitch is locked by the locking-loop, as hereinafter explained. This feeding-clamp, moreover, has a lasting action, since it draws in the upper to some extent when it clamps the same against the sole before the awl passes through the' work, and it holds the upper in this position, so that the hole in the upper will be held in register with the hole in the sole as the needle is passing therethrough to receive its loop, thus avoiding all possibility of the awls drawing the upper away from the sole as it recedes and of the needles makinga new hole in the upper. The lasting action above referred to is of especial advantage when the shoe is poorly lasted and has the advantage of making the upper fit the last smoothly under all conditions. By having the clamp swing on an axis coincident to that of the needle, and therefore inside the path of the latter, I secure various advantages, one of the most important of which is that I remove it from all possible interference with the looper and shank of the awl and cnable the forks to grasp the upper close to the path of the needle. As the action of the force exerted by the clamp is in line with the thrust of the awl and needle, it has no tendency to move the shoe in the hands of the operator in directions which are dierent from the rpath of movement of the awl and needle.

The connectingrod K2 is made elastic to allow variable thicknesses of material to be embraced by and between the feed-spur and feed-clamp through the agency of a spiral spring 7a2, (shown in vertical cross-section, Fig. 3%) which is interposed between the lixed button or collar k2 on the end of rod K2 and the inner end ol the adjusting-screw la", which is held in position by being threaded to the shell 795, through which the rod K2 slides freely. By this arrangement the feed-clamp does not approach the feed-spur too nearly when they engage the thicker portions of the stock, such as counters and toe-caps, as the spring allows the rod K2 to lengthen or shorten, according to the varying thicknesses of material encountered. The stitch is varied in length by moving the adjusting-screw m to the desired position in the slot m0.

The channel-guide N (see Figs. 1 and 3 and enlarged detailed views Figs. 8, 9, and lO) is secured to a swinging lever having arms N N2 by the adjusting-screws n' n2, this lever being fulcrumed to the mid-plate A3 by the screw n2. The arm N2 of the lever projects rearwardly, so that its end is in close proximity to the lower end of arm K. The end of the arm N2 is beveled on its side nearest to the arm K', the latter being also beveled on its side next to the beveled end of arm N2. The lever N N2 is loose on its pivot, so that when the shoe is fed along the guide N is carried along with it by the friction between the guide and the sole, so that the guide will be carried close to the path. of the needle. As the lever K' advances to throw back the clamp K while the needle is drawing the loop through the stock it will engage the end of arm N2 and throw the same toward the mid-plate, thus throwing the guide in the opposite direction the desired distance away from the path of the needle. A rightangle bracket n4 is secured to bracket A5, which latter is secured in turn to the midplate A3. The arm of bracket n4 extends over arm N and is provided with a slot a5 in its overhanging part. A vertical stop-pin fa in arm N projects into slot a5, so that the movement of the guide toward the needle will be arrested upon the engagement of the pin fn with the end of slot a5, the parts being adjusted so that theguide can not move so close to the path of the needle as to interfere with the passage of the needle through the Work.

The objects of arranging the guide N so IOO that it may move laterally in the manner just described are, first, to preventI the friclion between the guide and the channel in the sole as the shoe is fed along, and, second, to have the point of the guide as nearly opposite the awl as possible when the latter penetrates the stock, so that the guide will be in a position to better resist the thrust of the awl and hold the channel in proper alinement. The parts are arranged so that the guide will be moved back in advance of the feed-spur and so that the latter may move back in the same direction at its proper time and rengage the stock between the guide and the needle. As the feed-spur is on one side of the path of the aw] or needle and the channel-guide on the other at the time the awl is penetrating the stock, they act together to hold the shoe in precisely the right position and also distribnte the resistance necessary to resist the thrust of the awl on both sides of the path thereof.

The backrest L5 acts in conjunction with the guide N to hold the shoe in place when the feeding spur and clamp are moving back Io grasp the work again, and consists of a sliding bar having a semicircular headpiece at its end which bears against the shoe opposite the guide N. Its rear end extends nearly under the main shaft (see Fig. 2) and slides easily in a longitudinal groove in the mid-plate A3 and is held therein by the clips Z4 Z5, as shown. A pin ZG projects from the rear end of the back-rest, and a spiral spring L5 is connected to said pin at one end, its other end being connected to a pin Z7 in the clip Z5. The rest L5 is prevented from beingdrawn too far forward by the spring by the stop-pin Z5, which abuts against the clip Z5. The friction-shoe L4 is pivoted to the mid-plate A5 at Z and is pressed up against the sliding bar by an eccentric projection Z3 on shaft Z2. Shaft Z2 is journaled in the mid-plate at one end and extends laterally and is journaled in a bracket Am at its opposite end. Vhen the shaft Z2 is oscillated, it will alternately lock and release the sliding bar or back-rest L5 by causing the eccentric projection Z5 to press the shoe L4 up against the bar and then permit the same to drop. The shaft Z2 is oscillated alternately to lock and unlock the back-rest by the cam L. The lever L', which is swung by cam L, has a link L2 (see Fig. 3) pivoted to its lower end by pin Z. The opposite end of the link is pivoted on the pin Z', which is arranged in the slot o3 in the end of arm L5. The arm L5 is secured to shaft Z2, so that as the arm is swung the shaft will be rocked.

The backrest L5 is constantly kept up against the shoe by the action of the spring L5, so that the channel-guide point is held in the bottom of the groove in the sole of the shoe. (See Fig. 6.) lVhen the feed spur and clamp are disengaged from and are being moved back to rengage with the between substance and upper, while this rengagement is taking place and until after the shoe has been fed forward, the back-rest is free to slide back and forth; but after-the shoe has been fed forward the rest is securely locked by the action of the mechanism just described in whatever position it may assume with respect to the channel-guide by reason of the irregularity of the form of the last, the object being to aid the operator in holding the shoe properly and also to assist the feed-clamp K4 to resist the thrust of the needle and draft of the thread when the stitches are drawn up and set.

It is sometimes desirable to release the backrest L5 when it is locked by the action of the cam L, and for this purpose I employ a horizontal lever O, (see Fig. 3,) which is fulcrumed to the frame A by means of rod O'. The inner end of lever O is connected with a foottreadle (not shown) by the rod o, and its other end is connected to the link L2 by the connecting-rod o' and is held in its lowest position by the spring O2. The upper end of the lever L3 is provided with a diagonal slot o5, in which the screw Z' works up and down. The screw Z' is secured in link L2. When the operator depresses the treadle, the screw Z' is forced upward in the slot 02. This movement draws the arm L3 toward the lever L', turns the shaft Z2, and releases the back-rest L5. When the treadle isreleased, the spring 02 draws the screw Z' down to its normal position in the lower end of the slot o2, relooking the back-rest.

The devices just described form a group of mechanism whose function it is to seize, hold, feed, guide, control, and prepare the stock for the reception of the stitch. As previously indicated, this stitch is composed of two threads, one of which is waxed and the other unwaxed, and for convenience I will hereinafter use the terms waxed th read and dry thread when referring to them, they being indicated in the drawings by the letters Vand W, respectively.

I will now describe the group of mechanism the function of which is to manipulate and control the thread when forming, introducing, and completing the stitches in the material.

The tension devices for controlling the waxed thread are best seen in Figs. 2, 3, and 4, and consist of an ordinary main tensionwheel P, mounted on a bracket P', secured to the frame A, which receives the thread from the ordinary waxer (not shown) and delivers it tothe sewing mechanism. The wheel P is controlled in the ordinary wayby friction-washers, (not shown,) between which it rotates on a bolt P2. This bolt extends through a supporting-sleeve P5, carried by bracket P', and is provided with a large head p at one end and an adjusting-nutPl at the other. A spiral spring is interposed between the outer end of the supporting-sleeve P3 and nut P4, so that the tension may be adjusted in the usual way.

The take-up mechanism (see Figs. 1 and 3) IOO IIO

consists of a horizontal shaft J4, one end of which is journaled in the mid-plate A3 and the other end in a bracket A7, and which has an arm j secured thereto between its ends. Each end of said arm is provided with an antifriction sheave j jg, respectively, around which the waxed thread is drawn in its passage from the tension-wheel to the needle. (See Fig. 3) The axes of these sheaves are parallel to and equally distant from the axis of shaft J4. Secured to the outer end of shaft JJis acrank-arm J3, said arm being connected to the lever J by the connecting-rod J2. The action of cam J upon lever J' causes the sheaves to be moved back and forth in the arc of a circle which has its center in the axis of shaft J4. lt will be apparent that as the sheavej2 is moved toward the needle and the sheavej in the reverse direction the path followed by the thread from the tension-wheel P to the needle is shortened, and vice versa, so that as shaft Jl is oscillated the sheaves will alternately deliver and take up the thread.

The mechanism for operating the take-up is adjusted so that the take-up will be rotated forward to give oft slack thread as the needle draws its loop through the work, and will then be rotated back, so as to take up the thread and set the stitch after the loop is cast oif from the needle-hook, the last part of the backward movement of the take-up after it has set the stitch acting to draw od sulcient thread from the tension-wheel for the succeeding stitch. In order that the needle may draw the stitch tight against the upper as it draws back theloop, the forward movement of the take-np must be arrested just before the needle reaches it-s extreme backward position. The thread must therefore be under a certain tension during the last part of the backward movement lof the needle, and unless other provision is made it will be placed under a tension equal to the full tension of the tension-wheel-that is, the needle would have to draw acertain amount of thread through the stock direct from the tension-wheel. This causes such a strain on the thread as to almost invariably either break it or break the needle. To relieve this over-strain upon the thread, I employ an inter-mediate device between the main tensionwheel and the point where the stitch is set, which consists of an arm p2, which is pivoted to the center of the bolt-head1) by the screw p3. The outer end of this arm p2 extends beyond the periphery of the main wheel I and rests while in its normal position on the frame A. A pin p" projects laterally from the end of arm p2, on which a concave antifriction-roller p5 is free to rotate. (See dotted lines, Figs. 2 and 3.) The outer end of the arm p2 is held down to the frame by its spring p6, one end of which bears thereon and the other end of which is adj ustably secured to the frame A by the screw p9 and disk p7. This disk p7 may be turned to the right or the left by the pin p8 after the screw p9 has been slackened to properly adjust the tension of the spring. The outer end otl spring p6 rests in a hole in the arm p2. The arm p2 is prevented from `being carried upward too far from the frame by the stop-pin p10, secured in the bolt-head p. The thread V is passed from the tension-wheel under the roll p5, so that the thread is deflected from a straight course between the point at which it leaves the tension-wheel and the point where it is taken onto the sheaves of the take-up. When the needle has taken up all the slack thread which has been given oif by the take-up and starts to draw the thread tight against the upper, the necessary tension for this purpose is supplied by the lifting of the roll p5. The spring p6 is adj usted so that the roller@5 will lift before the thread will break or before the needle can draw thread from the tension-wheel. The needle is thus supplied with extra thread under tension to finish its back stroke and set the stitch tightly along the upper of the shoe. The amount of extra thread required for this purpose is slight and does not raise the arm p2 up to the stop-pin 1910,' but when the take-up is drawing back the thread and setting the stitch around the dry-thread loop the strain exerted on the waxed thread by the take-up rst draws the arm p2 up against the stop-pin, and then as the take-up continues to swing it draws suiiicient thread from the tensionwheel for the succeeding stitch. The maf chine is thus supplied with two tension devices, eaoh of which acts independently of the other, one of said tensions being comparatively light and acting to draw the thread tight against the Lipper and the other being comparatively strong and acting' to set the stitch by drawing the waxed-thread loop around the locking-loop.

The waxed-thread-carrying mechanism which deposits the waxed thread in the hook of the needle is provided with a thread-guide f7, having a longitudinal thread-passage at itslforward end. (See Figs. l and 3 and detail views Figs. ll to 17, inclusive.) The thread is admitted to guide f7 by an opening in the side thereof, as shown. The rear end of guide f7 is socketed in the forward end of a horizontally-swinging arm F6. This arm F(i is pivoted to the sliding bar FB by a screw f2, and its opposite end is provided with a curved slot f5. A fixed pin f projects into said slot, said pin being supported by a bracket-piece A9, which is secured to the mid-plate A3. The sliding bar F3 is provided with a longitudinal groove fm on its inner side, into which a tongue fu on the face of the su pportingpiece F4 projects, as shown in the crosssectional view in Fig. 15. The opposite side of supporting-piece F4 has secured thereto, about midway between its ends, a laterally-extending trunnion f8, which is journaled in the midplate and held against lateral movement bya nutfg. The sliding bar Fais held against IOC IIC

the supporting-piece F4 by a spring-plate F5,

(shown in detail in Fig. 133,) which is secured to the plate F4 by a screw f, which eX- tends through a longitudinal slot in the bar F3 (see dotted lines, Figs. 11 and 12, and cross-section in Fig. 15) and is screwed into the supporting-piece F4. A pin f is also secured in the piece F4 and extends forward through a hole in the spring-plate to prevent it from turning on the screw f. The rear end of bar F3 is provided with a wide slotf3, into which a stop-pin f4, which is secured in the mid-plate A3, projects. The bar F3 has reciprocating horizontal movements imparted to it by the cam F through the lever F' and connecting-rod F3, the latter being pivoted to the downward-projecting arm f13 of bar F3 by a screw f43. The bar F3 would slide freely between its su pporting-piece F4 and the plate F5 but for the fact that the ends of plate F3 are bent inwardly, as shown in Fig. 13, forming a spring which bears on the bar F3 and presses it against the piece F4 with considerable force. A friction between piece F4 and bar F3 is thus created which impedes the sliding movements of the latter, so that the forward end thereof will be forced to tilt upward or downward as the rod F3 begins to draw its downwardly-projecting arm f43 forward or back before the rod F3 can cause the bar lo slide forward or back on its supporting-piece or guideway F4. The tilting movements of bar F3 are limited by the stop-pin f4 in the slot f3, and its sliding movements are determined by the remaining throw of rod F3 after it is tilted.

As the thread-measuring mechanism acts in conjunction with the mechanism just described, I will explain its construct-ion and operation in this connect-ion. It consists of a thread-finger cl3, (see Figs. 2, 16, 17, 1S, and 20,) which is socket-ed and secured in the outer end ofthe shaft (Z4, said shaft being journaled in the end of the bracket-piece cl3, which is secured in the mid-plate A3 by the screw d3. The shaft d4 is provided with a crank-arm d, to which the link CZ is adjustably connected by a pin which passes thro ugh a long slot in the arm. rIhe opposite end of link d is connected toleverD, which is swung by cam D. When the cam D throws lever D, the finger (Z5 will be swung in an arc which is concentric with the axis of shaft d4.

The purpose of the thread-measuring device is to form, after the shoe has been fed along in the position for the next stitch, a loop of slack thread between the needle and the previous stitch of sufficient length to nearly make one-half of the loop required by the needle in drawiiig the loop through the stock back to its limit. When the measuring-finger is in its extreme downward position, the end of the linger is interposed between the thread which leads from the previous stitch to the carrier, the latter then being nearly opposite7 as shown in Fig. 16, and the path of the needle. As the thread-carrier moves forward and diagonally across from one side to the other of the path of the needle it bends the thread around the nger of the thread-measurer (Z5, as shown in Figs. 16, 17, and 18, thereby forming the slack loop required between the previous stitch and the needle. Another important function of the thread-measurer is to engage the upper side of the thread, so as to draw or hold it down, as shown in Fig. 18, as the carrier or looper places the thread in the hook. If the measurer were not formed so as to do this, the thread would slip off the nger as the looper carries it up and lays it in the hook. By engaging the thread at its upper as well as at its inner side the measurer permits the looper to draw the thread down rmly into the needle-hook. 'When the needle has retreated with the thread until its hook is in the stock, the ngeris carried to its highest position,free ing the loop, and when the needle has nearly completed its backward stroke the slack loop is drawn up against the upper. The shaft of the take-up mechanism is rotated forward, so that it delivers slack thread to the needle at the same time that the needle is drawing the loop through the work. The amount of slack thread delivered by the take-up is the same as that measured off by the threadmeasuring finger, so that as the threads are slack on each side of the needle throughout nearly the whole backward movement thereof the thread does not slide or render through the hook, as it would were all the slack threads supplied from one side of the needle.

The various positions of the thread-carrying device are shown in Figs. 11, 12, 13, 16, and 17, it being shown in combination with the thread-ii nger in Figs. 16 and 17. In Fig. 12 the sliding bar F3 is shown as tilted upward to its fullest extent by rod F3, in which position the end of the carrier cl3 is above the dotted line X, which indicates a line on a level with the eye of the hook of the needle. In Fig. 1l bar F3 is shown as drawn down to its lowest position below the hook of the needle by the reverse movement of the connecting-rod F3. The lateral movements of the carrier arm F6 are shown in Fig. 16, with the carrier f7 at the right and left of the path of the needle. The change of position of the carrier laterally is caused by the pin f as it engages with the slot f5, while the bar F3 is moved forward by the rod F3. The forward end of the thread-carrier moves in the path indicated by the dotted lines Z Z and in the direction of the arrow, it being above the needle when advancing and below when retreating. (See Fig. 17.) It also moves from the right-hand side of the needle to the left-hand side thereof in the path indicated by the dotted line Z in Fig. 16, so that its combined movements carry it in a circuit completely around the path of the needle. Fig. 16 shows the extreme lateral, and Fig. 17 the extreme vertical, positions of the end of the carrier, these figures also showing the eX- IIO treme front and back position thereof. The several positions of the end of the socket of guide f7 shown in these ligu res are numbered, respectively, 1 2 3 at 5 6, position 1 indicating the normal position just before starting to thread the needle, position 2 being directly over position 1 and the saine as position 5, and position G being on the same level as positions 2 and 3 and directly over position 4. The varying positions of the waxed thread are also shown in Figs. 16 and 17in their relation to the thread-measuring finger and the needle, the former being shown as interposed between the point where the thread leaves the upper from the previous stitch to the oarrier in Fig. 16 and the thread being shown as bent around the finger in Figs. 16 and 17 after the carrier has advanced to its forward position.

The cast-olf Q, Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 18 to 21 and detail view Fig. 23, consists of a bent arm which is curved inwardly at its lower end and has a vertical hole Q5 at its forward end, (see Fig. 23,) which is of sufficient size to permit the passage of the needle therethrough. The upper part of the cast-off is secured to the lower end of a swinging lever q by screws, as shown, said lever being pivoted to a projection on a bracket-piece A4 by the screw Q and having an arm q2 extending upward, which is provided at its upper end with a crooked slot Q3, through which a pin g4, which is secured to arm c3, projects. Arm c3 swings up and down in operating the looping-hook, hereinafter to be described, so that the pin q is carried from the upper to the lower end of slot g3, swinging the cast-o in the plane of the path of the needle or a plane parallel thereto. When the pin is at the upperend of slot Q3, the forward end of the cast-off is drawn away from the path of the needle, as shown in Fig. 19, and when it is moved down to the lower end of the slot the l cast-off will be moved in the position shown in Fig. 20, so that the needle in its forward end is in line with the path of the needle. After the needle has drawn its loop fully back it advances until its hook descends and passes through hole g5, as shown in Fig. 20. In doing this the end or bar Q6 of the cast-od, which is beyond hole g5, engages the under side of the loop, so that the loop is lifted from the hook and may then be drawn back around the drythread loop, as hereinafter explained, to set the stitch in the material.

The device for controlling the dry thread W consists of a thread-guide R, which is secured to the inner side of the channel-guide N and is provided with a thread-passage r, the thread-passage being so located as to conduct the dry thread leading from its supply to a point between the shoulder of the channel in the sole or point where the needle'enters the sole and the upper, (see Figs. 6 and 8,) so that the thread will always be laid between the feed-spur and feed-clamp and in position to be engaged by the looping-hook,

hereinafter described in detail, which swings in the plane of the path of the needle and draws a loop of the dry thread through the waxed-thread loop. rlhe thread W is drawn through the passage r of the guide R forward and across the path of the needle by the action of the feed spur and clamp as they feed along the shoe. Each time the shoe is fed forward from the guide R suflicient thread is drawn through the thread-passage to reach from the guide to thc previous stitch, where it is confined to the sole of the shoe by the waxed thread. It will readily be seen that if the feed-spur were moved only as far as the left side of the path of the needle and were not made to'cross the path thereof and the path of the looping-hook when the shoe was abruptly turned to a right angle with the axis of the needle the end of the thread attached to the sole would be carried around with the shoe and the thread leading from the guide R to its secured end would be drawn parallel, or nearly so, with the path of the looping-hook, and therefore the hook could not engage with the thread under such conditions. These conditions arise when sewing around a shoe having a pointed toe, and although the shoe would not be likely to be turned to such an extreme extent as that just mentioned, yet it would be enough to render the machineinoperative by the inability of the looping-hook to grasp the dry thread. Hence it is imperative that the feed-spur should move across the path of the needle and prevent that part of the thread extending from the guide R to the feed-spur from being carried into a diagonal position with respect to the path of the looping-look, so that under all conditions the thread will be presented practically at a right angle with the path of the looping-hook.

The looping-hook c (see Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 19) is provided at its forward end witha hook c5, which is secured to a swinging arm c4, said arm being hinged in the end of arm c3 on the pivot cs, said arm being secured to a shaft c2, said shaft being journaled in the bracketpiece A4. An arm c is secured to the outer end of shaft c2, said arm being connected with the cam C by the connecting-rod C2 and lever C. By these means the arm c3 is moved up and down, carrying with it the looping-hook c and pin g4. The hook c5 is swung longitudinally by the cam H in the plane of the path of the needle through the medium of the lever H', connecting-rod l1., and arm c, the latter being secured to arm c4 by screw c7, and rod h being pivoted to arm c6 by screw h. The looping-hook c5 has two horizontal forward and back movements-wiz., a long one to carry it forward through the waxedthread loop from the under side thereof into engagement with the dry thread and a short one backward to draw a loop of dry thread through the waxed-thread loop, (see Fig. 20,) followed byashort one forward to disengage its hook from the loop and thence backward ICO out of the way of the needle. Its downward movement takes place when its hook has reached its extreme forward movement, and its upward movement simultaneously with its short forward movement, both of its vertical movements being simultaneous with the forward and back movements of the cast-off. The length of the locking-loop which is drawn through the waxed-thread loop maybe adjusted by loosening screw c7 and swinging arm c6 so as to vary the leverage of rod h with respect to pivot c3, thus varying the length of the short backward throw of hook c5 as it draws the locking-loop through the waxed-thread loop. The waxed thread leads from a waxer (not shown) to and around the tension-wheel P, thence downward and under the roll p5, thence forward and around the sheave j', thence upward through a hole in the shaft J4 and over the sheave y2, and forward through the thread-carrier f7, and the dry thread WV passes from its thread-su pply through a hole in the arm N and thence downward and through thev thread-passage r in the guide R.

Although I have described the sole to be sewed as fitted with a groove or channel, yet this channel is not absolutely essential to the operation of the machine, as it is quite possible to sew it to the upper without any channel in the former. In practice, however, it is desirable to provide the sole with a very shallow channel to serve as a guide for the operator and to permit the feed-spur to engage the sole to better advantage.

The cams being properly shaped and timed, the operation is as follows: When starting to sew with the above-described machine, the several devices for forming the stitches are in their initial position, as shown in the principal drawings, Figs. 1, 2, and 3, with the needle, awl, cast-off, looping-hook, feed-spur, feed-clamp, thread-measuring linger, and thread-guide drawn away from the work to theirfullest extent, with the back-rest forward and resting against the shoe and the channel-guide in position in the groove. (See Figs. 6 and 8.) To introduce the work into the position shown, the operator presses the shoe against the back-rest, which is now unlocked, and forces it back sufficiently to hook the channel-guide into the channel, as shown in Fig. 8. During the first revolution of the shaft B the operator holds the loose ends of the thread in position to be seized by the needle and loopinghook. This first revolution will secure the thread to the upper and sole, and the first stitch will have been taken. When this is done, the vertical position of the parts will be the same as before stated. The lateral positions of the feed-spur, feed-clamp, and channel-guide will now be at the lefthand side of the needle and at such a distance that when they have been moved forward and laterally to their fullest extent the shoe will have been fed along to a distance equal tothe length of the desired stitch. As the machine starts to take the next stitch the feed-spur moves toward the between substance and engages with it between the channel-guide and the needle, and at the same time the feedclamp moves forward and clamps and holds the upper firmly against the edge of the sole and forces the between su bstance firmly against the feed-spur. (See Fig. 7.) Then they are moved laterally to their fullest extent, carrying the work along with them. At the end of this movement the feed-spur will be on the opposite side of the needle and the feed-clamp, with its cloven end, will be in position for the needle and awl to pass through it. (See dotted lines, Fig. 5.) The back-rest is now locked, and the awl moves forward and punctures a hole through the upper and between substance and immediat-ely retreats, closely followed by the needle,which advances to its fullest extent. (See Figs. 6 and 18.) The thread-carrier now advances from its normal position 1 and moves upward to positions 2 and 5, then forward and laterally to position 3 and to position 6, then downward to position 4, (see Figs. 16 and 17,) and traveling in the directions of the arrows and in a path represented by the dotted lines Z ZC Before the thread-carrier starts to move forward, as j ust described, the thread-measurer descends to its lowest position (see Figs. 17 and 18) and is interposed between the thread leading from the previous stitch to the carrier and the path of the needle, (see Fig. 16,) and as the threadcarrier has a lateral movement from position 5 on one side of the needles path to position 6 on the other (see dotted line Z, Fig. 16) simultaneous with its forward movement the thread extending from the previous stitch is bent around the thread-measurer and carried forward across the hook and then downwardly on its opposite side, (see Figs. 16 and 17,) so that the needle-hook engages the thread at such a point as to leave a loop of thread between the previous stitch and the one being formed. (See Fig. 18.) After the threadcarrier has reached position 4 and deposited the thread vsecurely in the hook of the needle it moves backward and laterally toward its starting-point until its delivering end is in line with the needles path, where it rests, and the needle withdraws,with the thread, until its hook is in the material, when the threadmeasurer moves upwardly to its highest position and becomes disengaged from its loop, so that the latter is free to be drawn up by the needle. When the thread-carrier starts from position 1 to bend the thread about the thread-measurin g finger and lay it in the needle-hook, the take-up shaft begins to rotate forward and continues to move the take-up so that it will give off sufficient slack thread while the carrier is making these movements to relieve the latter from any strain and supply the thread-finger with its loop. Up to the point described the take-up has advanced about one-half of its forward movement, and as the needle recedes, drawing the loop through the work, the take-up advances the remainder of its forward movement, giving off an amount of slack thread equal in length to the length of the loop made by the threadfinger. It is desirable, though not wholly necessary, to have the take-up cam move the takenp back slightly as the thread is laid in the needle-hook, so that the thread will be drawn rmly therein. The needle moves back until all the slack thread given off by the threadfinger and take-up has been taken up on both its sides. Just before the needle is drawn back out of the stock the feed-clamp moves back to its fullest extent away from the upper (see Fig. 19) to allow the slack loop from the thread-finger to be drawn up against the upper. (See Fig. 2l.) When the needle has taken up all the slack thread afforded by the thread-finger and take-up, it still has a short Y distance to move before completing its stroke and obtains its thread for this purpose by straightening the deflected thread lying between the thread-supply and take-up and lifting the deflecting antifriction-roll against the resistance of its spring. This gives sufficient extra thread under tension to draw the slack loop from the thread-finger up tightly against the upper, and when this is done the needle has reached its extreme backward movement and the feed-clam p has moved forward against the upper, as seen in Fig. 20, one prong of its forked end holding the part of the stitch thus formed tightly against the upper until the stitch is set around the locking-loop. While the needle is drawing in its loop, as just described, the looping-hook is carried forward through the needle-loop from the under side thereof to its fullest extent beyond and over the dry thread, which is then lying at right angles with the path of the hook. The hook is then moved down ward onto the thread and then backward a short distance, drawing a loop of dry thread through the needle-loop. (See Fig. 20.) When the needle is atits highest point after drawing the waxed thread tightly against the upper, the cast-olf is moved forward until its aperture coincides with or is in line with the needles path, and the needle is then moved forward a short distance until its hook passes through the aperture far enough to carry the end of its barb below the upper side of the end of the cast-olf, so that the bar at the end of the cast-off will engage the under side of the loop and lift the same from the needles hook. (See Fig. 20.) The movement of the take-up is reversed by the time the waxed-thread loop is cast oi from the needle, drawing this loop tightly around the locking-loop of dry thread and setting the stitch. The dry-thread loop is held by the looping-hook until the waxed-thread loop is drawn down to it. Then the hook is swung forward slightly and lifted so that it becomes disengaged from the dry-thread loop just before the waxed thread is drawn tightly about the dry-thread loop. The hook is then swung back to its normal position.

(See Fig. 21.)

When the stitch is set, the locking-loop of dry thread is drawn firmly against the bottom of the channel in the sole, and the end of the loop is laid ont dat in the channel beyond the waxed-thread loop, as shown in Figs. 21 and 22, so that there is no danger of an objectionY able bunch being formed by the lockingloop projecting up over the waxed -thread loop, as in prior machines. The take-up continues its reverse movements until it has drawn suicient thread from the tensionwheel to form the succeeding stitch, after which it is moved in the opposite direction sufficiently to relieve the thread hwich extends from the thread-carrier to the tensionwheel from strain and allow the roll 195 to swing to its normal position. The thread-carrier then finishes its stroke by moving backward and laterally into position l. When the stitch has been completed, the back-rest is unlocked and the feed-clamp and feed-spur are withdrawn from the stock into their position shown in Fig. 8 and moved back laterally into their original position when starting, the shoe being held in place by the channel-guide and back-rest until the clamp and spur again engage the work. All the other mechanism is then in position to repeat the operation.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is as follows:

l. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a curved needle having a hook on its side of shortest curvature, in combination with a pivoted cast-olf,an arm or bar carried thereby, means for oscillating said needle so as to draw in its loop, means for swinging said cast-olf so that said arm or bar is inside the arc of the path of the needle, and means for advancing the needle so that the barb of the hook passes below said arm or bar; whereby said arm or bar will engage said loop and lift the same from the hook.

2. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a curved needle having a hook on its side of shortest curvature, a pivoted cast-oif having an aperture therein, and means for swinging said cast-olf so that said aperture will coincide with the path of the needle at predetermined intervals.

3. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a curved hooked needle having a hook'on its side of shortest curvature, which is adapted to draw a loop of thread through the work, in combination with a cast-olf comprising an arm which is pivoted to swing in the plane of the path of the needle, said arm being pivoted and swinging outside the arc of the path of the needle,and havinga portion thereof which is adapted to be swung inside the path of the needle so as to engage the under side of the loop and lift the same from the hook as the needle is advanced.

4. A shoe -sewing machine comprising a curved needle having a hook at its end, means for oscillating the same, in combination with a cast-olf consisting of a pivoted lever having IOO IIO

an aperture at one end, a slot in its opposite end, a swinging arm, a pin carried thereby, which is arranged in said slot, said parts being arranged so that upon movement of said swinging arms, said lever will be moved so that said aperture will coincide with the path of the needle.

5. A shoesewing machine comprising a curved needle having a hook on its side of shortest curvature, means for oscillating the same, a thread-carrier for placing the thread in said hook consisting of a pivoted guideway, a bar which is adapted to slide thereon, means for creating friction between said bar and said ghideway, athread-guide carried by said bar, a rod for reciprocatin g said bar which is pivoted thereto at one side of the middle line of said guideway, whereby the bar will be tilted by the rod before it will be reciprocated thereby, and means for limiting the tilting movement of said sliding bar.

(i. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described con'iprising a curved, hooked needle, means for oscillating and for causing the same to draw a loop of thread through the work, in combination with a thread-guide arranged to deliver a locking-thread inside the arc of the path of the needle, means for drawing a loop of said locking -thread through said needle-loop, so that the strand. composing the loop of said locking-thread enters and passes out at the same side of said needle-loop, and means for drawing the needleloop around the locking-loop.

7. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described comprising a curved, hooked needle, means for oscillating and forcausing the same to draw a loop of thread through the stock, a thread-guide which is arranged to deliver a locking-thread above and at one side ofthe path of the needle, means for engaging said locking-thread on the opposite side of the path of the needle so as to draw the same in a line substantially at right angles to and inside the arc of the needles path, a looping-hook, means for moving said hook so as to engage said locking-thread between said guide and said means, and for causing said hook to draw a loop of locking-thread through the needle-loop, so that the strand composing the loop ot` said locking-thread enters and passes out at the same side of said needle-loop.

8. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described, comprising a needle for drawing a loop through the stock, a thread-guide which is arranged to deliver a locking-thread at one side of the path of the needle, an arm which is interposed between the path of the needle and said locking-thread, means for moving said arm across the path of the needle, a hook for drawing a loop of said locking-thread through said needle-loop, and means for moving said hook so as to engage said lockingthread at a point between said arm and said thread-guide while said arm is on the opposite side ofthe needles path from said threadguide.

9. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described, comprising a needle for drawing a loop through the stock, a thread-guide which is arranged to deliver a locking-thread at one side of the path of the needle, an arm, means for causing the same to engage the stock between the path of the needle and said guide, and for moving the same, while in engagement, across the path of the needle, a loopinghook, and means for moving the same so as to engage said locking-thread at a point between said arm and said thread-guide, and for drawing a loop of said lockingthread through the needle-loop.

10. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described comprising an oscillating needle for drawing a loop of thread through the work, in combination with a looping-hook for drawing a locking-thread through the needle-loop, means for moving said hook both longitudinally and vertically; whereby it is made to pass through said needle-loop, engage said locking-thread and draw the same through the needle-loop and move forwardly and upwardly so as to become disengaged from the locking-loop.

11. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described comprising a curved needle having a hook which iskso located that when the thread is placed therein it will lie substantially at right angles to the path of the needle, means for placing the needle-thread in said hook, means for causing the needle to draw a loop of thread through the work, in combination with a looping-hook which is normally located outside the arc of the needles path, means for swinging said hook in the plane of the path of the needle, and means for moving said hook vertically and for causing said hook to pass forward through the needle-loop from the under side thereof, to engage the locking-thread and draw a loop of the same back through the needle-loop, means for moving said looping-hook so as to become disengaged from the locking-loop, and means for drawing the needle-loop about the lockingloop.

12. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described, comprising in combination, a curved needle having a hook which is so located that when the thread is placed therein it will lie substantially at right angles to the needles path, a looping-hook for drawing a lockingloop through the needle-loop consisting of an arm having a hook at its lower end, a crank to which said arm is pivoted at its upper end, a reciprocating rod which is pivoted to said arm at an intermediate pointl thereof, means for moving said arm in the plane of the path of the needle, said arm being normally in a position outside of the arc of the path thereof.

13. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a curved needle having a hook on its side of shortest curvature, a movable thread-carrier, means for causing the same to pass over the needle -hook and lay the thread therein, and a take-up, in combination with a thread-fin- IOS IIO

ger, means for swinging said finger downwardly so that it will be interposed between the thread leading from the preceding stitch to the thread-carrier and the path of the needle, will engage the thread so as to hold it away from the work and below or outside the path of the needle-hook, and will measure ol a loop of the desired length as the carrier lays the thread in the needle-hook, means for causing said finger to release said loop, and for causing said take-up to give off thread as the needle is drawing its loop through the work.

14. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a hooked needle, means for placing a loop of thread in said hook, means for causing said needle to draw said loop through the work, a tension device which places the thread under a constant tension, a take-np, means for causing the same when moved in one direction, to

-give olf slack thread to the needle, and when moved in the opposite direction, to draw up the slack thread from the needle-loop and set the stitch, and to pull ed thread from the ten-V sion device for the next stitch, a movable arm which is arranged to engage the thread between the tensiol device and the needle, a spring for holdin said arm in a position to deflect the thre d from its normal course, means for adjusti gthe tension of said spring, and means for 1i iting the movement of said arm in either dir ction; the tension of said spring being adju ted so that the arm will yield before the ne dle can draw thread from the tension device. y

15. In a shoe-sewin machine of the class described, the combin tion of the following instrnmentalities, a cu ed hooked needle which is adapted to drama loop of thread through the work, a thread-carrier which is adapted to place the threadn the needlehook, a thread-measurer for forming a slack loop on one side of the needle, a take-up which is adapted to deliver slack thread on the opposite side thereof, and which is also adapted to take up the thread to set the stitch, a tension mechanism for determining the strain on the thread when the stitch is set, a cast-ofi' which is adapted to disengage the thread from the needle, a hook which is adapted to draw a locking-loop through the needle-loop, a feeding mechanism for feeding along the work and means for actuating the said instrumentalities so that they will perform their several functions.

16. A shoe-sewing machine of the class described comprising a curved hooked needle, means for oscillating and for causing the same to draw a loop of thread through the work, means for delivering a locking-thread inside the arc of the path of the needle, a loopinghook, means for causing the same to pass through said needle-loop from the outer side thereof to engage said locking-thread, and to draw a loop of the same through said needleloop, and means for drawing said needle-loop around the locking-loop.

17. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a curved hooked needle, means for oscillating and for causing the same to draw the thread through the sole and upper, in combination with a movable clamp comprising two arms which extend outwardly from within the arc of the path of the needle, and which are adapted to engage the upper in close proximity to, and at each side of the path of the needle therethrough, and press the upper against the sole at points other than below the path of the needle.

18. A shoe-sewing machine comprising a curved hooked needle, means for oscillating the same about a fixed axis and for causing the same to draw the thread th rough the work, in combination with a clamp which is pivoted to swing on the same axis asthat of the needie', and is provided with two arms which are adapted to engage the upper at each side of the path of the needle, and means for operating said clamp.

In testimony whereof I have affixed my signature in presence of two witnesses.

EDWIN E. BEAN.

Witnesses:

LOUIS H. HARRIMAN, M. O. JAQUITH. 

